Tuesday, March 11, 2008

Here Comes the Rain Again


Imagine yourself waking in an attic room, a light rain falling outside the rickety old window and lilac bushes swaying gently in the breeze. Olivia Giacobetti’s En Passant, created in 2000 for Frédéric Malle’s Editions de Parfums, was conceived, je pense, with such a scene in mind. Giacobetti, creator of such perfumes as Diptyque’s cult-classic Philosykos, L’Artisan’s Safran Troublant, Hermès Hiris, and, most recently, Lubin’s Idole de Lubin, is a perfumer of two minds. On the one hand, she succeeds at yummy scents which blend intriguing spice components with a certain gourmand appeal. On the other hand, she has an attraction toward rawness in nature. Hiris and Philosykos prove her the mistress of the uncooked. It’s “raw perfumery,” if you will. Figs torn from the branch before they’ve even plumped to ripeness, an iris rhizome yanked from the dew-soaked earth. En Passant contains notes of white lilac, rain, orange tree leaves, cucumber and wheat. On my skin it registers moisture and early morning freshness. It is clean and comforting, and takes pride of place on a man’s or woman’s vanity.

5 Comments:

Anonymous MarkDavid said...

Hiris for me today. You know its the love of my life!

I can never read about it and not go put it on - as if I didn't know what to expect.

March 12, 2008 at 3:11 AM  
Blogger Vetivresse said...

MD, I will be writing about Hiris next!

March 12, 2008 at 7:40 AM  
Blogger carmencanada said...

What's becoming of Giacobetti, by the way? A couple of years ago, she was a perfume blogger's darling, before JC Ellena took on the job. After the demise of her own brand IUNX, I don't know what she's doing...

March 13, 2008 at 1:43 AM  
Blogger Perfumeshrine said...

I admire her work, although it doesn't always suit me (En Passant is not the lush, true lilac I expected, even though both Hiris and Philosykos are magnificent for my sensibilities). "Raw" is a very apt term describing her style.
And indeed, like D says, it needs a little sleuthing to find out her whereabouts these days.

BTW, I took the initiative to link you in today's post on Perfume Shrine, hope it's all right :-)

March 13, 2008 at 4:02 AM  
Blogger Vetivresse said...

D and E, Indeed some sleuthing is called for. If there weren't so many scents to test, I'd be devoting the better part of my energies to such investigations. Thanks for the link!

March 13, 2008 at 9:31 AM  

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