The Master Blender: Lorenzo Villoresi

In a world of LVs, I opt for the olfactory: Lorenzo Villoresi. Florence may have its David and the traces of Lorenzo the Magnificent, but for its modern-day denizens the magician in their midst is a perfumer. And a very good one at that. For me, Villoresi's compositions stand out as stunning, high-quality compositions that create a world around the person privileged to wear them. My first encounter with his scents took place in 2002 on the bathroom shelf of my then-boyfriend in Basel, Switzerland. It was Vetiver (1994) and, boy, was it opulent: rosewood and florals, labdanum, pepper and a base of vetiver, tonka bean, sandalwood and more than its fair share of musk. Beside my Etro Vetiver the Villoresi felt quite rich (as in monied) and manly. It had more going for it than some petitgrain. Wearing it was like cascading through an enchanted perfumers' scent organ in perfectly formed chords and arpeggios. Today, what with my carnation kick, I'm wearing Garofano (1995). It's refreshingly unisex, shower-clean and pitch perfect with rose, vanilla, heliotrope, powdery musk and carnation con forza. After a few minutes on my skin, the florals recede to further reveal the spicy earthiness. With Villoresi I'm tempted to employ the word terroir in an attempt to place the impeccable provenance of his natural oils and essences, but perhaps what I'm trying to capture is that world he's created in his head – one that he's managed to translate flawlessly in the finished product. Compared with Prada's Oeillet, Garofano is full-bodied and viscous. It demands a warmer personality in its wearer ... and some Florentine élan.